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If you want something different, feel free to go to the "Need a Custom Design? I follow the "common chamber" and "common port" philosophy, meaning one chamber for all of the subs and a single, large port.
This has been proven to be more efficient (louder), and takes up less space than going with a chamber and port for every subwoofer.
Here you'll get an inside view of what the box will actually look like when it's finished.
You still get all of the dimensions listed, so you don't have to go back and forth from the floor plan to the build-up plan when looking for dimensions.
Using the correct materials for your enclosure will make it sturdier, sound better, and most importantly, give it a clean, professional look.
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Because of that, I have gained a ton of first hand experience with ported box design.
Whether it's for a single 10" woofer or a pair of 18'" subs, I put a lot of work into my boxes to ensure they are accurately made and give a good blend of sound quality and spl.
And who wants their subs to fall on their face when trying to pump out a 30hz note? Because of this, I tune my standard box designs at 33hz and use a generous amount of port area to beef up the low-end response.I thoroughly enjoy helping others with their audio needs, and I believe that it shows with how I treat my customers and the amount of effort I put into my boxes.I design all of my boxes with the purpose of giving you a well-rounded box.The 45's are there to simply aid the people who can make those cuts, in order to help them get the most out of the design. With most pre-fab boxes, and even some custom boxes, you don't get any bracing.This is costing you output, because when the box flexes it absorbs some of the sound waves. Because of that, I brace the larger walls in my designs with either 2" wide strips of MDF or 1.5" wide wooden dowels which can be bought at Home Depot.